George Wales ditched the calorie counting on a recent visit to the Trip Kitchen and Bar
Amid the deafening clamour of the London food scene, it can be a little difficult for a new restaurant to make itself hard, particularly if your new opening can’t boast a parliament of owls flapping around the rafters, or a menu exclusively comprised of obscure Scandinavian porridge.
The new restaurant from Jones & Sons at Haggerston’s Trip Kitchen doesn’t offer any of the above, but what it does have to shout about is a host of excellent modern European cooking with an emphasis on top quality meat.
The Ginger Pig butchery in Levisham, North Yorkshire is a regular supplier (always a good barometer of quality), and the dinner menu is studded with carnivore-baiting treats. A starter of Duck Liver Parfait with redcurrant jelly and brioche might look a little trad on paper, but it was a flawless rendition of a classic dish. Meanwhile, Seared Scallops were plump and bouncy, served with apple puree and black pudding for a piggy twist.
Homing in on the Josper Grill section of the menu, we opted for a pair of Herefordshire Rib Eye steaks for mains, served up with sides of Triple Cooked Chips, Seasonal Greens and Macaroni Cheese. Both steaks were cooked exactly as requested (medium rare and well done respectively), while the Mac & Cheese was a particular highlight – quite a rich accompaniment to steak, but if you’re counting calories, this probably isn’t the place for you.
Desserts are of the cosy, comforting variety. Stuffed from our mains, we opted for a Pear, Berry and Almond Crumble to share. Swimming in vanilla custard, it was perfect nursery food, and exactly what we were looking for. At this point it’s probably worth mentioning that it’s possible to order in less heart attack-tempting fashion, we just chose not to.
The space itself is textbook Haggerston; all exposed lighting and industrial fittings, although the arched ceiling makes for a cosy interior, despite the Spartan aesthetic. A small bar area is also on hand, and we can confirm that they serve up a mean Negroni.
With Tonkotsu East and Hawker House a stone’s throw away, and Rotorino just around the corner, this previously barren end of Kingsland Road is rapidly becoming one of East London’s hottest foodie destinations, with Jones at Trip a welcome addition to a burgeoning local scene. It might not be the showiest opening of recent months, but what it does, it does very well indeed.
Trip Kitchen, Arches 339-340 Acton Mews London E8 4EA
words George Wales, a freelance writer specialising in food and film. He tweets at @georgewales85