Cool fish dishes, chilled vibes and proper puds, John Gregory-Smith loved The Fish and Chip Shop City.
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It’s raining and I am marching up and down Old Broad Street under a sodden Evening Standard looking for a bloody restaurant that is no-where to seen.
After several phone calls and a minor melt down, I arrive at Des Mcdonald’s new Fish and Chip Shop City looking like a drowned rat. Despite being in an odd location, I am thrilled to be here. It’s dry, warm and really cool. The staff offer me a towel and a massive beer (how did they know) and I set about reading the menu.
Centered around an open bar, the restaurant is decked out diner-style, with low net curtains over the windows, mint green booths, tiled walls and an open plan kitchen that wafts out delicious smells to entice you into eating everything.
We dive into a plate of beautifully cooked scallops on a light cauliflower puree, spiked with chilli and lemon (£14.50). Little golden raisins burst with sweet fragrance, balancing out all the flavours perfectly and giving a lovely aftertaste to the dish.
Next we greedily devour a main sized portion of Scottish scampi tails (£10.50) as a second starter. Served in a basket, these little nuggets of crispy golden glory were sweet and juicy and the super chunky tartar sauce that accompanied them was excellent.
For our mains we had a beautifully cooked piece of dover sole (£35), cooked on the bone and served simply with beurre noir, just the right amount of lemon and salty fried capers. It was pricey but a heavenly treat. Next a finger licking shrimp burger (£12.50), which had a thick patty made from juicy prawns and crunchy cornichons, fried until golden and served in a brioche bun with a spicy sauce. Good god it was utterly delicious. I yomped my half back as if a pack of hungry wolves were after it.
Desserts were fantastic. A light rice pudding (£5.50) flecked with vanilla and doused in a sweet blueberry compot, with honey comb pieces and a dark chocolate and caramel pot (£5.50) that arrived looking sinfully sexy, with two huge layers of thick caramel and rich chocolate, with a light vanilla cream and crunchy pieces. Like the Rolo of the future – I will be back for more!
The Fish and Chip Shop City, Dashwood House, 69 Old Broad Street, London EC2M 1QS
For more information visit thefishandchipshop.uk