Bone Daddies are gate crashing a pizza parlour in Soho, get ready for Shackfuyu
In a long green restaurant with a huge pizza oven, the Bone Daddies team have given this sad Soho joint a lick of Japanese cool – bare brick walls, green booths and a rock and roll sound track. Hello Shackfuyu
The menu is short and sweet, the concept being to bring us a flavour of what’s hot in Japan right now, and that’s not sad sushi on a conveyer belt!
The USDA beef pincanha, which was cooked in the pizza oven, was sliced thinly and served with unctuous umami sauce. Yellow tail sashimi tostadas were a little too lemony, but the red mullet nanban style was epic. Fried, sticky fish in a really zingy salad that was refreshing and light. Mentaiko mac cheese was a little boring. Mac cheese with fish eggs. Nice if you like that kind of thing.
Fried potatoes (I know sounds dull, but think again) with a homemade Japanese curry sauce were killer. The potatoes acted like little sponges, soaking up the rich fruity sauce. FYI – if you start doing take out I want an order of these every day!!
Scallops with chilli miso butter were off the scale good. Soft, silky scallops just cooked through in a rich salty butter. And finally prawn toast – again this was served how they eat it in Japan. It came as an okonomiyaki (pancake), with the prawny layer on top and some sauces zigzagged over everything. As my fellow diner (Clerkenwell Boy – cheers) said ‘prawn toast only made better’ and that is exactly what it was – the greatest prawn toast that there ever was and ever will be!
Desserts, well there was only one; soft serve green tea ice cream that was bright green with just the right hint of bitterness. It came with French toast that had been sweetened with kinako, a sweet Japanese soybean flour that gave it a light crunchy texture. It worked beautifully with the ice cream.
The menu will change regularly, with talk of whole fish and suckling piggys going into that oven and getting the full Shackfuyu make over. It’s only here for one year so make the most of it!
Shackfuyu 14a Old Compton St Soho, London W1D 4TJ