George Wales dives into the new Mother Clucker menu at Cat and Mutton
One of East London’s oldest and most welcoming watering holes, The Cat & Mutton has long been the jewel in the Broadway Market crown, with a rotating roster of foodie royalty taking over kitchen duties to keep the raucous hordes of regulars fed as well as watered. Street food veterans Mother Clucker are the latest vendors to make themselves at home in this corner of E8, serving up succulent buttermilk fried chicken good enough to have the Colonel weeping into his bucket.
Seated in the cosy upstairs dining area, we kicked things off with a bowl of hot nuts (warmed cashews, coated in an cripplingly moreish BBQ marinade) and a substantial portion of wings. Mother Clucker’s chicken is marinated in a sweet tea brine before being soaked in buttermilk and coated in a secret blend of spices– the result is a batter with serious personality, packing a pleasingly herby crunch.
You can order it as an on-the-bone combo of drumsticks, thighs, wings and strips, but we opted for the Cluckwich – a chicken breast burger nestling in a fluffy brioche bun, served with roast pickled peppers and lashings of hot sauce and lime mayo. The peppers are a particularly inspired addition, cutting through the fried fayre with a piquant flourish. And at just £8, with a portion of perfectly crisp fries thrown in as standard, it’s also a bit of a steal.
We also enjoyed a lively salad of seasonal greens (including the unusual, but wholly suitable addition of fresh parsley), although a side of coleslaw was a little too dill-heavy. Having eaten our collective bodyweight in chicken, we didn’t quite find room for dessert although the beignets that arrived on a neighbouring table looked worthy of a return visit, as does the Sunday offering of roasted Beer Can Chicken.
We’ll be keeping our eyes peeled for any sign of a permanent Mother Clucker site over the coming months, but until then, we’d advise getting down to The Cat & Mutton ASAP, before they fly the coop.
Mother Clucker at The Cat and Mutton, 76 Broadway Market London E8 4QJ, from 27th August
Words George Wales, a freelance writer specialising in food and film. He tweets at @georgewales85