Grace Parry got her claws into some cracking crustaceans at Lobster Kitchen.
Cook up your own seafood feast with this delicious lobster salad recipe.
Before I get down to the nitty gritty of Lobster Kitchen, Fitzrovia’s latest super hip seafood joint, allow me to sound totally and utterly uncool for a second: I really dislike queuing. London restaurants in recent years have got into this habit of refusing bookings and therefore often have a mile long queue outside their door. So when I rocked up to Lobster Kitchen on a Tuesday night, with every intention of settling in till closing time, only to be met with a line of uber-trendy foodies with the same idea, my only thought was: ‘this better be good’.
In all truthfulness the queue did not last the hours I imagined it would, so it didn’t take too long before myself and my co-eater Martin, a lobster virgin, were taking in the surroundings. Lobster Kitchen is advertised as a ‘rustic seafood shack’ like those found on the coast of America’s lobster capital Maine, and with exposed wood floors, ceiling and tables, alongside dangling lobster traps and colourful buoys, it isn’t exaggerating.
The menu, unsurprisingly, is totally crustacean-centred with lobster being available in every and any form you could possibly imagine, all at very reasonable prices (a whole split lobster and a side is £19). There are rolls, tails, salads, deep fried things and a choice of sauces, all served in cardboard dishes that add to the casual aspect of the restaurant.
Deciding to be decadent to the third degree, we pretty much ordered one of everything, starting with a lobster roll with cocktail sauce and a half steamed ‘Asian’ tail (smothered in chilli and fish sauce). If there is one thing that must be said here it is that Lobster Kitchen, can indeed, cook a damn good lobster.
The lobster roll was smothered in a tangy, smooth mayo sauce that was offset by the sweetness of the lobster meat and brioche roll, whilst the salty ‘Asian’ lobster tail was juicy and unctuous in its spicy dressing.
The sides that followed were a mixed bag. The deep fried lobster legs were like super special scampi in a Cajun inspired crust, whilst the lobster salad was a lovely green plate scattered with big chunks of fish.
Onto slightly less green pastures… the chips were sadly floppy, and far too thick to be classified as ‘shoestring’ as is claimed on the menu. The lobster mac and cheese, though peppered with thick chunks of lobster and smothered in a rich cheesey sauce, is served in a cardboard box, thus letting steam circulate and rendering the pasta the wrong side of mushy.
Reasonably priced lobster is always going to be a winner in my books, and Lobster Kitchen does deliver on that front. Finishing the evening with a few cocktails certainly confirmed our degenerate decent into this no longer upper-class-exclusive seafood. And if that’s not a compliment, what is?
Lobster Kitchen, 111 Great Russell Street, WC1B 3NQ
For more information visit lobsterkitchen.co.uk