Les 110 de Taillevent is the new outpost of the two-Michelin-star Parisian restaurant. Nestled on Cavendish Square where Coutts private bank once serviced the wealthy, it is a suitably slick operation.
We came for Wine Time, a menu of sharing plates served between 5p and 7pm. Pierre-Yves Rotten, responsible for the redesign of the Savoy, also had viticulture on his mind when he decorated this upmarket brasserie using earth tones and lining the walls with illuminated wine bottles.
We headed to the bar, which was livelier than a more sterile restaurant of 70 covers, thanks to vivacious sommeliers brandishing their Coravin bottle openers.
Not that you even need a sommelier at Les 110. The Wine Time menu is arranged horizontally with a choice of four wines recommended for each dish, offered in 70 or 125ml sizes. Wines by the glass start at £5 and up, ranging from English wine to champagne, with circular cardboard tags attached identifying your selection, lest you forget.
The food is fine French fare, created by Alain Solvers, executive chef of the Paris iteration, well executed and elegantly presented.Starters, fish, meat, desserts or cheeses offer four choices, all reasonably priced (£7-£15) and generous in size, to be paired with the wine offerings.
From the poisson selection, we ordered crab with remoulade (£11).We paired it with Champagne Brut Delamonte NV (£12). A top choice. The fizz worked the light crunchy gambas tempura (£9) too before we moved on to red.
An excellent Maroc Syrah Tandem 2011 complemented a high-quality charcuterie platter: the finest para negra from Jabugo, parma ham, pâtés en croûte and pork crackling (£23 for all four).
The macaroni with ham, emmental, trompettes de la mort (£8) was the black hole of cheese bakes: so dense it made Hawksmoor’s effort look lightweight.
My dining companion thought Domaine de Montcalmes Coteaux de Langedoc 2011 (£12) should be called Coteaux de Wet Dog. Harsh. The pinot noir from Oregon: Mount Jefferson Cristom 2011: much better.
We soldiered on to the next quadrant: a selection of fromages (£15). A superb Saint-Nectaire, an excellent Comté (when isn’t it?) and a nod to Blighty, offering up the finest Stilton, Colton Bassett.
Still working the Mac and fromage, I barely recall pudding through the fog of cheese and carbohydrate.
My fellow dinner enjoyed the charlotte aux poires (£8) – pear sponge cake – and crème anglaise (£8).
I found tags identifying drinks in my wallet the next day that reminded me I liked my sweet wine, Jurançon Molleux 1990 (£14), which still had some cash in it too. Bonus. You don’t need a banker’s budget for Wine Time at Les 110.
BRASSERIE LES 110 DE TAILLEVENT – 16 Cavendish Square W1G 9DD
Words Paul Dunn. Paul is a lifestyle and sports writer, you can catch him tweeting @twunnsy