George Wales discovers Dim Sum Sundays at Hakkasan Hanway Place.
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As the temperature drops and the nation is enfolded in a cloak of drizzle, the weekend becomes an increasingly precious commodity, a beacon of respite from the perma-grey grind of the 9-5. With that in mind, Hakkasan Hanway Place is aiming to stretch those treasured two days as far as possible with a special Dim Sum Sundays menu, designed to inject some fun back into the Sunday dining experience.
Available each Sunday from midday to 6:45pm, the boozy new offering comprises a six-course tasting menu for two, bookended by two pairs of winter cocktails, with a bottle of Louis Roeder Brut Premier Champagne thrown in for an additional £10 per person. We don’t know who would turn that option down, and quite frankly, we don’t want to. A rotating roster of guest DJs are also present, with our waiter helpfully informing us that Sunday is the new Friday…
We got the ball rolling with a pair of pleasingly seasonal cocktails, in the form of a Winter Sour (apricot, gingerbread, Rittenhouse 100 rye whiskey, lemon, nutmeg and Elumakule Tiki bitters) and a Hakushu Crush (kumquats, yuzu, Suntory Hakushu 12yrs whisky, Drambuie, ginger, cardamom bitters and soda) – characterized by wintery flavours of ginger, nutmeg and cardamom, they had us in festive mood from the off.
The tasting menu itself gives a good overview of Hakkasan’s Michelin-starred Cantonese cuisine, beginning with the Crispy Duck Salad, a salty sweet signature dish of tender, shredded meat, muddled up with pomelo, pine nuts and shallot. Moreish like you wouldn’t believe…
Next up are a series of steamed dim sum, perfect parcels of scallop, prawn and crab, followed by a “fried and baked” selection. A Baked Venison puff, was a sticky sweet highlight, closely followed by a Golden Radish Crab Meat Pastry.
A “small eat” dish of Salt & Pepper Squid was served up in note-perfect batter, before the arrival of a main course of Chilean Sea Bass, glazed in Chinese honey to lend it a subtle sweetness, and paired with a faultless egg-fried rice.
Desserts come paired with a second round of cocktails, with a number of hot options available to fortify you against the elements. Our favourite was the Ruby Warmer, a Christmassy concoction of Tuaca brandy liqueur, port, cinnamon, nutmeg and liquorice bitters – something we’ll definitely be attempting to recreate at home in front of the Queen’s speech…
All in all, the Dim Sum Sundays menu offers a great opportunity to sample a wide selection of Hakkasan’s culinary highlights. And at £58 for six courses, two cocktails and half a bottle of Champagne, the value for money is fantastic.
Hakkasan Hanway Place, 8 Hanway Place, London , W1T 1HD
George Wales is a freelance writer, specialising in food and film. He tweets at @georgewales85