Comfort food kings Dirty Bones open a new restaurant in Kingly Court.
Tucked away at the top of Carnaby’s Kingly Court, Dirty Bones Soho is the second branch of the American comfort food legends, after the hugely successful Kensington eatery saw their burgers and bones fly off the grill.
The space is intimate, dimly-lit and very lively. At a right angle to the kitchen is the bar, extremely handy for watching your drink being shaken while simultaneously keeping a beady eye on how the fried chicken’s coming along. As for the rest of the décor – pinball machines, red booths and exposed pipes scream retro American bar, faded lampshades and twee tiles sort of remind you of your nan’s house, and red framed windows imply you’re dining inside a telephone box. Somehow it works.
Starters include salt and pepper squid and deep fried mac and cheese balls. The squid is crispy, light and soft in the middle, while the mac cheese balls really deserve their own paragraph. Mellow and not too strong, with gooey lumps of molten cheddar strung throughout, it’s a good job they are drizzled in the world’s spiciest sweet chilli sauce, or the impulse is to order 6 more.
Milkshakes are on-point – a vanilla caramel one with honeycomb pieces and a malted milk, chocolate and Oreo rocked. You know that feeling when you suspect you’ve over-ordered? No, me neither. For main course, crispy fried chicken, the Mac Daddy (beef burger, pulled beef short rib, mac and cheese) a Brit dog (pork sausage, treacle bacon, beer cheddar) and dirty fries (chilli cheese sauce, bbq sauce, cactus salsa) make up a sizeable feast. The chicken is excellent, golden and crunchy without the grease, while the burger is one large melting double-beef-double-carb taste sensation.
If you have room for dessert, the double chocolate cookie will melt on the tongue, and seal you off in a final bout of indulgence.
Diners can play a game where dice are rolled on a ‘Bonopoly’ board, with the chance of winning prizes like discounted brunch, free drinks or desserts. This is a great idea, although at this stage you are aware that if you ever eat again it will be too soon.
Dirty Bones delivers a fast, funky, flesh-filled feed. Rest assured, the only way you could have a meatier experience were if you were actually sitting on the grill itself.
Dirty Bones Soho - Top Floor, Kingly Court, Carnaby Street, London W1B 5PW
Words by Rosie Cassels, gin obsessed food fanatic, tasting London one cheese board at a time. @rozzlesmozzle