A laid-back Hoxton restaurant that’s hitting the right note for world fusion dining
A first glance at this restaurant’s website and its eclectic menu of world flavours made us concerned as to how each dish would gel together. But as we entered the Hoxton Street location that’s styled in New York-inspired exposed brick, metal and concrete décor, we realised that this is a place into getting things right. The glass frontage and outdoor seating make a special welcome, and we loved the Mondrian-esque colour blocked table tops.
The restaurant, which opened five months ago, serves a menu that ventures to the Middle East, India and China with a modern fusion twist thrown into the mix. Plates are best shared and you can choose from out of the garden, on the land and from the sea sections. Edamame and split pea fritters made a satisfying start – crispy and fluffy with chewy chunks of halloumi secreted in the middle, with a zesty lime yogurt to dip them in.
We then had two plates from the sea, cuttlefish with peppercorns, broccoli, basil and tamarind, and braised octopus with garam masala celeriac purée and pumpkin seeds. We argued over which of these dishes won the seafood prize, for me the braised octopus was a wonderfully well orchestrated balance of flavour, colour and texture – meltingly soft with an aromatic spice flavour in the celeriac and a little crunch from the seeds. The cuttlefish took a South East Asian inspiration and was pan-fried and covered liberally in a tangy and sour tamarind dressing, topped with soft green peppercorns that popped pleasingly in the mouth.
The on the land section proffered a slow-roasted pork with pak choi and pickled papaya, we also ordered a side of crushed potatoes with poppy seeds. The pork arrived as two slivers of pork belly atop bright green pak choi leaves. The pork itself was delightfully tender. Encircling the pork the moat of stock was thin and rich with star anise and soy, cut through with the vinegar sting from the pickled papaya. The crushed potatoes, which were spiced with cumin and topped with yogurt were blighted only by the too numerous poppy seeds.
For dessert a thick and creamy cardamom-spiced shirkhand yoghurt and an icy banana and coconut ice-cream with palm sugar syrup were both wolfed down in seconds.
Flavour innovation doesn’t stop at the kitchen pass at 100 Hoxton Street, the bar turns out a cocktail menu that’s worthy of a review in its own right. The favourite of the night, however, has to be the lemongrass, lychee and chilli fizz, which was sweet and fruity with just the right amount of tongue-tingling chilli.
100 Hoxton Street might have adventurous ideas in the kitchen but they manage to execute them with aplomb. And with a killer cocktail menu this easy-going bar will find plenty of fans.
For more information visit 100hoxton.com